Planting Under Conifers

Dry Shade & Fence Screening Ideas: Real-World Solutions Beyond Ivy

There’s a certain part of the garden that gets quietly ignored.

You know the one I mean. That stretch beneath the conifer hedge or the base of an old pine—where the soil is dry, the light is stingy, and even the weeds seem to give up. Maybe it runs along a fence. Maybe it’s where a Leylandii was planted for privacy years ago. Whatever the reason, it’s become one of those problem areas we all tiptoe past and try not to think too hard about.

But the truth is, even these tricky corners can be transformed.
And you don’t have to rely solely on ivy to do it.

Why Planting Under Conifers Is So Difficult

Let’s start with why this area is so hostile to planting.

Conifers—particularly the fast-growing evergreen types like Leylandii—are incredibly greedy. Their roots spread far and wide just beneath the surface, sucking up every drop of moisture before other plants get a chance. Above ground, the dense canopy blocks rainfall and light. And those needles? They acidify the soil over time and create a dry, inhospitable mulch that doesn’t break down easily.

The result?
A dry, shaded, nutrient-poor patch of ground with stiff competition for every resource. Not exactly a gardener’s dream.

But Here’s the Good News…

Some plants can cope. In fact, a few actually seem to relish the challenge.

The key is to look for plants that are drought-tolerant, shade-tolerant, and resilient against root competition. You won’t get instant results or towering blooms—but you will get a slow and steady transformation that, over time, softens those hard lines and brings that forgotten part of the garden back to life.

Planting Ideas That Work (Yes, Really!)

Here are a few plants I’ve seen thrive in conifer shade in real-world gardens across Bishops Cleeve and the surrounding areas:

Groundcovers & Tough Perennials

Epimedium – Delicate heart-shaped leaves, spring flowers, and unbeatable shade tolerance. Once established, it’ll shrug off drought and rooty soils.
Geranium macrorrhizum – Scented foliage, pink blooms, and a wonderful mat-forming habit. One of the best for dry shade.
Vinca minor – A classic. Reliable, evergreen, and capable of spreading gently through even the driest patches.
Liriope muscari – Grass-like leaves with surprising spikes of purple flowers in late summer. Adds texture and thrives once settled.
Japanese Anemone (Anemone x hybrida) – Especially the white ‘Honorine Jobert’. Tall, airy, and excellent for adding seasonal lift.
Sarcococca – A small evergreen with glossy leaves and wonderfully fragrant flowers in winter. Worth the wait.
Mahonia aquifolium – Spiky, evergreen, and full of winter cheer. It also tolerates dry shade well once mature.

Ferns That Don’t Flinch

Not all ferns like it dry, but a few do.
Try Dryopteris filix-mas (Male Fern) or Polystichum setiferum (Soft Shield Fern)—both native, both hardy, and both excellent for weaving structure back into tired borders.

Beyond Ivy: Screening & Softening Fences

If you’ve got a fence behind your conifers, the view can feel stark and a bit claustrophobic. A simple trick I’ve used in local gardens is to fix a wooden trellis a few inches out from the trunks. It gives you an anchor point for climbers—and makes the area feel more intentional, less like a leftover space.

Climbers that can cope (with a bit of support):

Hydrangea petiolaris – Slow to establish, but beautiful in time. Self-clinging and shade-tolerant.
Clematis armandii – Evergreen, scented, and happier than you might expect in light shade.
Climbing roses – Yes, really. Some varieties like ‘Madame Alfred Carrière’ or ‘Claire Austin’ are surprisingly shade tolerant if they get 4+ hours of light.

When planting near conifers, always dig a bit further out—ideally 18 inches or more from the trunk. Enrich the planting hole with compost, mulch thickly, and water deeply in the first year.

A Word on Soil Prep & Watering

You don’t need to dig over the whole area. In fact, you probably can’t—the roots will get in the way. But what you can do is create small planting pockets. Dig one good hole at a time, fill it with compost or leaf mould, and plant into that. Then mulch the top and water regularly.

The first year is crucial. Even the toughest plants need a bit of TLC while they establish. After that, they’ll start to take care of themselves.

In Summary

Planting under conifers is never going to be the easiest job in the garden—but with the right plants, a bit of patience, and a dash of determination, you can reclaim that neglected space. Even the driest, darkest corner has potential.

And best of all, when it starts to thrive, it feels like you’ve won something back—a corner of calm, a splash of green, and a quiet victory against the odds.

Have you managed to green up a tricky spot under your trees?

I’d love to hear what worked for you—whether it’s groundcover, climbers, or clever fencing solutions. Drop a comment or share a photo—it might just help someone else who’s staring at a bare patch wondering where to begin.

Happy Gardening,
Marcus